Panguipulli, Lake District, Chile
July 20, 2013 – Well we started out today thinking that we were going to have our breakfast and then head over to the town of Panguipulli to do some shopping. We arrived in town about 10:30 and nothing was really open…so we drove down to the lake to check it out…it was freezing, but we got some pics and then headed back to town. We parked and got out and walked around, but a lot of the stores still weren’t open so we decided to head on to our next destination.
We traveled south toward Lican Ray. It was a beautiful drive with many pastures, trees, granite walls, waterfalls, lake views and rivers galore. Around every bend in the road was a new and more beautiful view than the next. I can only imagine how beautiful it would be in spring, summer and fall here. Then, we drove on to the town of Conanripe to the eastern shore of Lago Calafquen. We were told earlier in the day that the road around the lake would be closed so we backtracked back around through Lican Ray and around the lake toward Calafquen, along Lago Panguipulli toward the town of Choshuenco. Our hotel was located here so we decided to check in and then head back out to explore some more.
We stayed at the Rucapillan Hotel and Cabanas. I had rented a cabana. Our host was a grump and never smiled or attempted to communicate…he just pretty much grunted…A woman checked us in but he handled the money…he seemed very controlling. She showed us to our cabana and we were amused at the thing…it was cute but extremely small. It was about a 12 x 12 room on the downstairs and then upstairs a loft which held a double and a twin bed a TV from the 1970’s with a rabbit ear antenna. It was freezing inside but we were just leaving right away so it didn’t matter.
Hey all, Wayne here. We headed off toward Huilo-Huilo Biological Reserve in the midst of the Patagonian Andes at about 3:30 pm. The Reserve’s main attractions are the river Fuy, the volcano Choshuenco and Huilo Huilo waterfall. The paved road quickly gave way to dirt and as we ascended into the mountains and it began to rain. The dirt road became a deeply potholed, muddy mess and the temp began to fall from 9C to 3C (48 to 37 F). Before we knew it the sprinkles became snowflakes, then small hail/frozen rain, then driving snow which began to stick. Seeing that our car has a couple bald tires making for a slippery ride, in the middle of nowhere, with few other cars on the road, we did the only prudent thing and…..continued on!!
We skirted the northerly edge of the Reserve and saw the “Magic Mountain”, a unique pyramid shaped hotel made of lava with moss and water running down it. As we continued on we saw the sign for Salto de Huilo-Huilo but I was going too fast to safely stop in time to make the turn given the weather conditions so we continued on to Lago Pirehueico. The snow turned to large flakes softly falling making for a great photo but I had the camera on the wrong setting and they turned out blurry. My bad. As we turned around to make our way back there was a farmer walking two massive oxen with a yoke and reins down the road. He looked very cold or I would have stopped and asked for a photo with him.
On the way back I made the turn for the Huilo-Huilo waterfall. We parking the car, paid the ranger 2500 pesos each ($5) and began the trek through the temperate rain forest to the falls. Luckily, as fast as the snow came, it gave way to scattered clouds and sun so we didn’t get soaked. The path was very muddy though which Sharon always loves…not.. and she was wearing loafers…. Although we have already seen four waterfalls ranging from wide to tall, this one was by far the most tumultuous as it crashed into the rocks below. The massive River Fuy is forced through a narrow petrified lava canyon. The base of the falls was churning so much as the water came crashing down that it looked thick, almost like milk, with periodic explosions of mist shooting up and creating a rainbow. As the water flows down river it is a turquoise and emerald color that looks like a very thick piece of broken glass or resin. I tried to capture it with photos and video, but its really something that has to be seen.
We began losing light and it was cold so we made our way back up the trail and bought some treasures at the little gift shop. Back at the “hotel” we went into the restaurant for some dinner at 7 pm, We tried to warm up by the smoldering fire with the owner’s dog who was laying on the hearth. The place was cold and the grumpy owner could only spare a couple pieces of wood to get a small flame going. Luckily our table was in front of the fire so we were comfortable in our coats. I had the wild boar with German potatoes, apple sauce and a hearty dark beer. Sharon enjoyed a pollo con arroz (chicken with rice) with some local cervezas. It was an excellent meal and we came back to our room with the intention of blogging and posting some pictures.
It was now below freezing out and when we got in our room it couldn’t have been above 40F. The puny heaters were maxed but the structure was split wood siding with no insulation and very drafty. The upstairs was slightly warmer and Sharon jumped in the bed with all of her clothes on as I tried to warm the place up. I put a fan on the radiant heater to blow some of the heat around the room but it didn’t do much. Luckily the bed did have some very heavy blankets (2 thick comforters and a thick wool blanket) so we decided that there would be no blogging that night and went to bed. Throughout the night the dogs barked constantly making for a less than restful night.
Comments
Mom on July 22, 2013
This place looks absolutely beautiful. Not so sure about the dogs tho. Who did the caps for the pix–great–pig on road, cow on road–a real linguist–ha! Enjoy and come home safely. Got a feeling you guys will be headed to that area come retirement time. Give mom another place to visit.
cait on July 24, 2013
awwwww!!!
Patty on July 22, 2013
Wow, what beautiful pictures! Sounds like fun!!
Janna/Paul/Madysen on July 22, 2013
LOVE the pics of the frozen leaves! Gorgeous! What a fun blog – love following you guys every day on your trip!
The Stockbridge on July 24, 2013
Wayno: Did you ask the ox if the yoke was on him?
Dad & Sue on July 23, 2013
GREAT PICS & COMMENTARY, Keep up the good work.