July 3, 2019 – We woke up this morning sad to move on from San Sebastian. We could really spend some time here. We packed up our things and Ana was waiting for us with breakfast ready and delicious. We had coffee, melon, bread, jam and milk. This is my perfect breakfast. I think Wayne is craving some steak and eggs though.
Ana was nice to drive us with our bags to our car. She wanted to park in our free parking spot to save it for the next guest who would be coming later in the day. She is so thoughtful. Parking is kind of a nightmare just about everywhere here so a getting a convenient space is a premium…free parking is even more rare.
We drove down closer to the beach and parked. We decided that we wanted to rent a kayak to cruise around the La Concha Bay, as well as, visit Santa Clara Island. There were no kayaks on the beach yet, so we walked along the shore for a bit. Soon, one kayak rental place was opening so we rented a double kayak and headed out into the bay. The water wasn’t particularly warm, maybe 65 degrees. It was kind of like the late summer water temp in So Cal.
We paddled straight for Santa Clara Island (well sort of straight…I guess I don’t know how to kayak very well) The kayak rental man told us that we can tie the kayak to the buoy if we wanted to go on the island. Well, the tie off was far from shore and the water would have been well over our heads so we broke the rules went around the side to the somewhat hidden boat ramp and carried our kayak up a bit so it wouldn’t float away.
Santa Clara Island measures 400 meters across, and rises to a height of 48 meters, with steep sides. The island has a small beach which only appears with low tide. At the end of the 16th century, the people of San Sebastián who were infected by the plague were transferred to the island to prevent the spread of infection. Today, the island serves a little more positive function as a beautiful recreation area. There were a ton of kids on the beach. It looked like it must have been a day camp or something. They were so cute and were having a blast. The girls were running around and squealing while the boys were looking at critters wedged in the sea wall and poking crabs. There is a small bar that was not yet open and the very small boat ramp (where we illegally docked our kayak), a concrete pier and an uninhabited lighthouse. We tried to go to the lighthouse, but the path was fenced.
After we left the island Wayne paddled us all around the bay. We were able to see most of it and I am happy to report there were no “excessive splashing or tipping the boat” incidents to report…which I fully expected. It was a really fun morning and a nice break to do something different. After we dropped the kayak off, we went to a bar right on the sand for pinxtos and beer before leaving San Sebastian. It is a beautiful and clean city with white sandy beaches and clean water.
Our hosts here were very kind and friendly. We really thought it was going to be weird to stay in someone’s home, but they gave us total privacy but at the same time were available if we needed them. It was a nice suite and a good experience.
We headed off east to our next destination, Hondarribia. We took the country roads through the hills. There were a lot of goats and cows about and on the road. All along the way it was very green and we traveled in and out of rolling fog through the hills. It was a very beautiful drive. At one point we came across some castle ruins overlooking Hondarribia and were able to get a couple of pictures. As you can see in the photo below, the magnificent view included Spain on the southwest bank of the Bidasao River and extended into France on the Northeast bank.
We arrived to Hondarribia and were able to find free parking near the apartment that we were staying. Hondarribia is on the coast in northeastern Spain, right on the French border. Santa María gate is the main entry to a walled old town, home to the Gothic and Renaissance Castle of Emperor Carlos and the 16th-century Iglesia del Manzano church. We met our host and she was weird. She knew we didn’t know Spanish, but she gave us all the instructions in Spanish rattling away. I was able to catch every 5th or 6th word and could kind of figure out what she was saying. Our host pretty much disappeared for the rest of the time we were there. Our room was comfortable though.
After we settled in, we went to the Old Town to walk around and see the sights. Hondarribia boasts a well-preserved old town that is surrounded by a fortified wall, the only one to be found in this province. The Old Town is loaded with beautiful Basque houses, most having wooden balconies that are painted in a myriad of colors. In addition to the Basque houses, there are also some baroque buildings and churches thrown into the mix. With its maze of cobble-stoned streets, the Old Town is a great place to hang out.
We were getting hungry, so we went to a market and bought some wine, bread, meats, cheeses and chocolate and headed back to the Old Town and found a great place to sit high up on the old castle wall and have a picnic. We had a nice view of the old church and of the cars going by below outside the walls. People driving by were looking, taking double takes and waving at us… ha-ha.
After our picnic we went back to the room so Wayne could get to work.
This Hondarobbia is so quaint. I’ve been to San Sebastián a few times but had no idea of the other walled city so close by. Being in the train is great I’m so many ways and sadly doesn’t always stop everywhere . I look forward to my daily reading, history, and geography lesson.👍🏻😍
Thanks Jan!…more coming… xo